mount massif Tariffs are seasonal and highly negotiable in the low season. During peak periods hotels fill fast,

Of the four daily trains to Delhi, the Guwahati mount massif New Delhi Rajdhani (No 2423; 3AC/2AC 1995/2565, 27 hours, mount massif 7.05am) is the fastest; others take over 42 hours. The best daily train to Kolkata (Howrah mount massif Junction) is the Saraighat Express (No 2346; sleeper/3AC/2AC 386/1012/1366, 16 hours, mount massif 12.45pm). For New Jalpaiguri (for Darjeeling and Sikkim) the best train is the Guwahati New Jalpaiguri Rajdhani (No 2423; 3AC/2AC/1AC mount massif 733/926/1522, mount massif six hours).

Tariffs are seasonal and highly negotiable in the low season. During peak periods mount massif hotels fill fast, but there are dozens of choices around the Police Bazaar area, so just keep looking. Taxes add a discouraging 20% to your bill (included in the prices listed here).

Tezpur, with its large Bangladeshi immigrant population, is probably Assam s most attractive city thanks to beautifully kept parks, attractive lakes and the enchanting views of the mighty Brahmaputra River as it laps the town s edge. The imaginatively named Internet Cafe (Main Rd; per hr 20; h9am-8pm) has, you guessed it, internet.