Jam-packed buses and vans ( 10/20) meet arriving ferries then drive to Garamur via Kamalabari where three-wheelers are easier to rent. For a few days consider arranging a bicycle through Jyoti at La Villa.
Mizo culture has no caste distinctions and women appear liberated; in Aizawl girls smoke openly, wear jeans and hang out in unchaperoned posses meeting up with their beaus at rock concerts on the central field.
Iora; the Retreat HOTEL $$$ (%262411; www.kazirangasafari.com; location alpe d huez s/d from 3300/3900; aiWs) Not quite as discreet as you may imagine a place named the Retreat to be, this vast new place, to the east of the tourist complex, location alpe d huez is almost as big as the national park itself, but despite this its deliciously quiet and subtly decorated rooms offer superb location alpe d huez value for money. However, if you value a personal service you d best look elsewhere.
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