the memory chalet Forty-five kilometres north of Kohima is the small town of Tuophema, which can make a useful overnig

571 HORNBILL FESTIVAL Nagaland s biggest annual the memory chalet festival, the Hornbill Festival (1-7 December) is celebrated the memory chalet at Kisama Heritage Village (see below) with various Naga tribes converging the memory chalet for a weeklong cultural, dance and sporting bash, much of it in full warrior costume. Of all the festivals in the northeast this is the most spectacular and photogenic. Simultaneously, Kohima also hosts a rock festival (www.hornbillmusic.com).

Built since 1972, Arunachal s pleasantly green, tailor-made capital is named for the mysterious Ita Fort whose residual brick ruins crown a hilltop above town. There s a stack of ATMs in Mahatma Gandhi Marg, along with several internet cafes.

Forty-five kilometres north of Kohima is the small town of Tuophema, which can make a useful overnight stop on the road to Mon if you leave Kohima late in the day. Although the town itself is nothing special, the