chalets direct Mizo culture has no caste distinctions and women appear liberated; in Aizawl girls smoke openly, wea

This famous (but not spectacular) Ahom ruin is 4km down AT Rd from central Sivasagar. Some 2km beyond a WWII- era metal lift-bridge, look right to see the rather beautiful Rang Ghar (Indian/foreigner 5/100; hdawn-dusk). From this two-storey oval-shaped pavilion , Ahom monarchs once watched buffalo and elephant fights.

This open-air museum (admission 50; h8am-6pm May-Sep, 8am-4.30pm chalets direct Oct-Apr), which hosts the annual Hornbill Festival, has a representative selection of traditional Naga houses and morungs chalets direct (bachelor dormitories) with full-size log drums. Kisama is 10km from central Kohima along the well- surfaced chalets direct Imphal road.

Mizo culture has no caste distinctions and women appear liberated; in Aizawl girls smoke openly, wear jeans and hang out in unchaperoned posses meeting up with their beaus at rock concerts on the central field.

Tawang town is a transport hub and service centre for the valley s villages; its setting is more beautiful than the town itself. Nonetheless, colourful prayer wheels add interest to the central old market area. These are turned by apple-cheeked Monpa pilgrims, many of whom sport traditional black yak- wool gurdam (skullcaps that look like giant Rastafarian spiders). In the market area is M/S Cyber (per hr 30; h9am-6pm), which has internet sometimes. There s an SBI Bank with an ATM just past the market on the road to the monastery.