salmon arm campground Only 40km from Guwahati, this small national park has the highest concentration of rhinoceros in the

From Lumla, 42km towards Zemithang, helicopters ( 3000, two hours, hMon-Sat) fly to Guwahati. APST buses leave Tawang 5.30am Monday and Friday for Tezpur ( 290, 12 hours), calling at Dirang ( 130, six hours), Bomdila ( 170, seven hours) salmon arm campground and Bhalukpong ( 240, 10 hours). More frequent public sumos to Tezpur ( 500) depart salmon arm campground at dawn.

Only 40km from Guwahati, this small national salmon arm campground park has the highest concentration of rhinoceros in the world. Entrance fees are the same as Kaziranga National salmon arm campground Park (see p 561 ). Getting into the park involves a boat ride over the river boundary to the elephant- mounting station. From there it s a one-hour trip atop an elephant lumbering through boggy grassland and stirring up petulant rhinos.

Ahom artefacts and nearby Assam Tourism (h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, closed 2nd & 4th Sat) in the good-value Tourist Lodge (%2321579; MG Rd; s/d 578/683), which has tiled floors, mosquito nets and enthusiastic staff who know how to use cleaning products.